LETTER V. Gloucefter, Auguft 1793.

DEAR SIR,

O'N

'N the road to Gloucefter, about two miles from Oxford, from a rifing ground, you have the finest profpect of that city, which, furrounded by a moft extenfive landscape, appears in all its dignity; on the left, viewing it in this pofition, you obferve an immenfe tract of richly cultivated country; after this, to Whitney, the country becomes flat, with an almoft imperceptible rife.

At the Bridge toll-gate, Enfham, ftands a large uninhabited building, which feems to be the monument of fome unfortunate fpeculation. I conjectured it might have been a manufactury, but the poftillion faid, it had been an inn, and was now untenanted from a dispute respecting the property of it. Entham is now a poor, but formerly was a royal village. There are yet fome remains of an abbey. Of the prefent houfes, three or four are tolerable; the church is a plain old building.

Witney, or Whitney, feven miles from Oxford, is the chief manufacturing town in this county, a place of great antiquity, and has furvived the honours of legendary times to prefent the appearance of active Efe and fuccefsful labour. Whitney is, however, rather a populous than a well built town, the houfes forming no regular feries; many individual houfes difcover the profperity of their owners; the town-house is a very neat tructure. The church is ornamented by a very handsome spire.

The blanket manufactory is in a very flourishing state. Their trade to the Continent has lately rifen, and I was informed that eighty thousand pounds of wool is the weekly confumption of the place. This great demand gives employment to the circumjacent villages, as well as to all the fpinners here. In Whitney, this manufactory employs one hundred and fifty looms, and upward of four thoufand perfons of all ages, and capacities, who are employed in the refpective proceffes. The mills for bleaching are plentifully fupplied with water from the Windrush. The waters of this fmall river are supposed to be impregnated with a fomething, which renders it more fit for ble-ching than any other. I cannot doubt what every perfon here is fo ready to maintain; but I cannot, at the fame time, help obferving that there was a time when the water of the Thames was fuppofed to poffefs the exclufive power of making porter; and not the whole of that river neither-only that part which flows from Weftininfter-bridge to Wapping, where if it acquired any extraordinary virtue, it certainly was not that of purity. But we now know that fome of the principal London brewers do not employ the Thames water, without any difparagement to the goodness of the commodity.Before leaving Whitney, I muft inform you that the free-fchool is provided with a very good library, a circumftance we do not always meet with in places of greater wealth and magnitude. Before I got out of the town, the chaife was followed by a troop of beggar children, whofe cant

ing tone and importunity showed that they had been trained up to this way of life, or that they had been fo neglected as to be driven into it from neceffity. Whenever we are told of the profperity of a manufacturing town, objects, like thefe, muft always be deducted from the account. There is nothing very deferving of notice in Minster Lovel, to which I now arrived, except the ruins of the priory, fituated in the vale, by the banks of the Windrufh. Such a fituation, it has been remarked, was very generally chofen by the founders of religious houfes.

Burford is delightfully fituated on an afcent, fouth of the Windrush, which enters Oxfordshire not far from hence, and irrigates the lower grounds. The town has little now to arreft a ftranger's curiofity. It boafts, however, of fome hiftorical fame, a battle having taken place here between Ethelun, a Weft Saxon Lord, and Ethelbald the king of Mercia, in which the latter was defeated, and his dragon banner taken from him. In commemoration of this, for many years after, the inhabitants used to make a proceffion with a dragon, to which they added a giant, for what is a dragon without a giant? In Mr. Lenthall's houfe, once poffeffed by the famous fpeaker, are fome excellent pictures, but an accident prevented me from feeing

them.

We enter Gloucestershire at Little Barrington, and paffing, on the right, lord Sherborne's houfe and grounds, arrive at Northleach, fituated in the center of the Cotswold hills, which now afford the first of thofe picturefque views, which nature has liberally beftowed on this county. The church of Northleach is a building of great antiquity, and contains fome curious monuments. The houses in general are god, although the clothing trade, for which this place was once famous has greatly decayed, on account of the want of a ready fupply of water. At the end of Northleach is a new Bridewell, the conftruction of which is re

markably well calculated for the purposes of labour and confinement.

Here I dined at the King's Head. What one eats is a matter of indifference in the detail, but it is impoffible to travel in this and other counties diftant from the metropolis, without obferving how much of late years the inns are improved. This is unqueftionably to be imputed to the improvement of the roads, and the greater facility of travelling. A journey of one hundred miles no longer reminds us of the viciffitudes of human life, nor is it attended with the folemn and ferious preparation of making a will, &c. far lefs is it the bufinefs of three or four days. The ease with which paffengers, travelling either on bufinefs or pleasure, may be conveyed from one place to another, encouraged innkeepers to extend the comforts in their gift to a degree of luxurious accommodation. Where, not many years ago, rufty bacon and eggs were the only refreshment to be had, you are now defired to walk into a larder ftored with every variety, and every delicacy.

After leaving Northleach, the road is very ftony, and the eye encounters what is an antidote to all beauty of cultivation, fione fences. In the evening, I arrived at Cheltenham, ftriking off from the old road at Frogmill. At Cheltenham, I was told that it would be impoffible to procure a bed, and I was politely defired not to take the trouble to leave the chaife. As I purpofed to return to this place, when it became more acceffible, I pushed on to Gloucester, through a road, very indifferent at all times, and rendered worfe by the late rains. Some pains, however, appear to have been taken to make a firm bottom; the ftones with which it is covered, are brought from Bristol and Chepflow. There is a baftard freestone in the neighbourhood, which might be procured at a cheaper rate, but it is not fit for the purpose.

Of the views in Gloucestershire, you have heard much. What you

meet

meet with after paffing Northleach is an earnest of your future entertainment, but as I cannot boast of a pen fufficiently various for defcriptive detail, I will for once, borrow that of the firft matter of picturefque fcience.

The county of Gloucefter is divided into three capital parts, the Wolds, or high downy grounds toward the east the vale of Severn in the middle, and the foreft of Dean toward the weit. The firit of these tracts of country, we had been traverfing from our entrance into Gloucefterihire and the ridge we now ftood on, made the extremity of it. Here the heights which we had been afcending by fuch imperceptible degrees, that we hardly ever perceived the afcent, at length broke down abruptly into the lower grounds; and a valt ftretch of diftant country appeared at once before the eye.

6 I know not that I was ever more ftruck with the fingularity, and grandeur of any Indicape. Nature generally brings different countries together in fome eafy mode of connexion. If the raile the grounds on one fide by a long afcent, the commonly unites them with the country on the other, in the fame eafy manner. Such scenes we view without wonder or emotion. We glide with out obfervation, from the rear grounds into the more diftant. All is gradual and easy. But when nature works in the bold, and fingular style of compofition, in which the works here, when the raises a country through a progrefs of a hundred miles (from London) and then breaks it down at once by an abrupt precipice into an expansive vale, we are immediately truck with the novelty and grandeur of the scene.

It was the vale of the Severn, which was fpread before us. Perhaps no where in England, a diftance fo rich, and at the fame time fo extenfive, can be found. We had a view of it almost from one end to the other; winding through the space of many kagues in a direction nearly from welt

To the north, we look up the vale along the courfe of the Severn. The town of Cheltenham lay below our feet, at the distance of two or three miles. The vale appeared afterward confined between the limits of Bredon hills, on the right; and thofe of Malvern on the left. Right between these in the middle of the vale lies Tewkefbury, bofomed in wood; the great church even at this diflance makes a refpcctable appearance. A little to the right, but in diftance very remote, we may fee the towers of Worcester, if the day be clear; efpecially if fome accidental gleam of light releve them from the hills of Shropshire, which clofe the fcene

To the weft, we look toward Gloucefter. And here it is remarkable, that as the objects in the northern part of the vale are confined by the hills of Malvern and Bredon, fo in this view the vale is confined by two other hills; which though inconfiderable in themfelves, give a character to the fcene; and the more fo as they are both infulated. One of thefe hills is known by the name of Robin's-wood; the other by that of Church-down, from the fingularity of a church feated on its eminence. Between thole hills the great object of the vale, is the city of Glouceller; which appears rifing over rich woody fcenes. Beyond Glouceller, the eye ftili purfues the vale into remote diftance, till it unite with a range of mountains. Still more to the weft arifes a distant foreft-view, compofed of the woods of the country uniting with the foreft of Dean. Of this view the principal feature is the mouth of the Severn, where it first begins to

aflume

affeme a character of grandeur by mixing with the ocean. A fmall portion only of it is feen ftretching in an acute angle over the wood. But the eye, ufed to perspective, feeing fuch a body of water, fmall as it appears, wearing any determined form at fuch a distance, gives it credit for its full magnitude. The Weich mountains alfo, which rife beyond the Severn, contribute to raife the idea; for by forming an even horizontal line along the edge of the water, they give it the appearance of what it really is, an arm of the fea.'

Thus far Mr. Gilpin, and if his defcription does not give you fome idea of the fcenery I now beheld, it will be in vain for me to attempt it. After stopping a few minutes at the Bell Inn, a house remarkable for having been the birth place of the cebrated George Whitfield, and where he once acted in the humble capacity of a waiter, I repaired to the house of our mutual friend, where my reception, to say the least of it, did in no refpect difcredit my expectations. It was kind without being oppreffive, and hofpitable without oftentation.

The city of Gloucefer poffeffes many advantages from its fituation. Built on an afcent of much regularity, and divided into four parts by two treets, which interfect each other at the highest point, the purpofes of health and cleanlinefs are anfwered at the leaft poffible expence. The streets being at right angles give an appear ance of regularity, which is diminished only by the unequal ftructure of the houfes. But this is an objection not to be remedied by a wish.

Gloucester was, no doubt, originally a place of ftrength, and hiftorians have been profufe in detailing its various fieges. Of that ftrength, or even of the appearance of it, very little now remains. As in every city in the kingdom, the walls and gates have been removed; civil war has not been the fubject of apprehenfion fince the middle of laft century; a gate or two, perhaps, are retained to

remind us of former days, or to pre ferve fomething venerable for its an tiquity, or estimable for its beauty. Weftgate, built in the reign of Henry VIII, is ftill entire, and having nothing to fear from artillery, may bid defiance to time for many a diftant year.

To a ftranger, the cathedral is the first object of curiofity, and it is but juftice to fay, that its beauties will bear the clofeft examination. It is reckoned the most perfect specimen of Gothic architecture, which is to be found in the kingdom. This opinion, however, is not accurately juft, and regards the outfide only. Within, we have fomething Saxon, and fomething Grecian, and the effect is not uniform." The tower is one of the most exqui fitely beautiful ftructures of the kind, the proportions being of uncommon delicacy, and viewed at a fmall diftance, it appears like lace work. The window in the east end, faid to be the largeft in England, has formerly been remarkable for paintings, but the colours have faded, and at prefent we can only guefs at a definite object.

The immenfe circumference of the pillars, about feven yards, which fupport the roof of the nave, have been objected to, as not bearing a juft proportion to the height, and this is an objection which I know not well how to remove. Had they been fluted, much of the heavy appearance would have been taken of That operation has been performed on two of them only. Mr. Gough, in his edition of Camden's Britannia, fays, that on a late attempt to flute them, they were found to be filled up with loofe irre➡ gular fones. This, however, I was affured is a mistake, and I could therefore with that the operation had gone on. The cuftom of building with large pillars and round arches is attributed to the Normans; and this cathedral, as well as thofe of Durham Norwich, and Worcester contain fpecimens of it.

Gloucester cathedral is kept with much care and cleanlinefs, an ob fervation

belong to it exclufively. Moft of the cathedrals in England are to be mentioned as doing credit to those who have the care of them. To fee a cathedral where filth and neglect predominate, we must go to Westminster-abbey, a building which, for fome reafon or other, has been fuffered to yield to the ravages of time, without one friendly hand to arrest the progrefs of its decay. By an afcent of two hundred and feventy-fix iteps, we reached the top of the roof, which commands an extenfive view of the vale in the center of which the city stands. From this eminence we perceive that the city was built in the form of a cross, a circumftance of religious veneration which, with the many remains of religious houfes here, gave rife to the proverb, As fure as God is in Gloucefter.' Such, at leaft, appears to be the probable origin of this expreffion; for, with all my partiality to a city, many of the inhabitants of which are already endeared to me by their kindnefs, I cannot say of it, as Petronius does of Athens, that it is easier to find a God than a Man in it.'

There are feveral handfome new monuments in this cathedral, which do credit to the artifts, although their names have not reached the celebrity of a Roubilliac, a Banks, or a Bacon. The cloisters are roofed with fione in a light and beautiful ftyle. The tomb of Edward II, who was inhumanly murdered at Berkeley Caftle, is the most worthy of notice, of the ancient monumental structures. There is a plate of it in Rapin's hiftory, but it has lately been engraven with uncommon fidelity and accuracy by Mr. Bonner, and is, I believe, intended for Byland's Antiquities of Gloucestershire. The great offerings made at the fhrine of this unhappy monarch, enabled the abbots to conftrust the cathedral.

The fee of Gloucester was erected by Henry VIII, and its lift of Bishops amounts only to twenty-four, but it boats of fome illuftrious names; Hooper, the martyr; Fowler, Ben

burton. To these I may add a name, which is mentioned by the inhabitants as no fmall ornament to their cathedral lift, the present Dean, whose learned and patriotic labours have engaged admiration, fometimes when they have not excited gratitude. The country owes fomething to dean Tucker, but there was a time of political infanity when his advice, if taken, might have laid the nation under a higher obligation. The dean is now in his eightieth year, and enjoys a tolerable share of health, but, to use his own expreffion, the clock has given warning.'

The old Abbey Chapter-houfe was converted into a library, called the college library, about one hundred and fifty years ago. Few contributions appear to have lately been made to it, and the collection is rather fmall.

The churches of Gloucester are commodious, and moftly old buildings, in which nothing very remarkable occurs. The infirmary is, without exception, the finest building of the kind in England, for its fize. It is fo happily conftructed as to prevent any offenfive fmell, or give one moment's umbrage to the most fantaftically delicate visitor. Very few private houses, indeed, are fo well calculated to advance the recovery of the fick. The wards are lofty and fpacious, and the air is admitted in due proportion. It contains on an average about one hundred patients, who are attended by profeffional men of acknowledged abilities. Their majefties, when here in 1788, were pleased to beftow great commendations on this building, and the governors, wishing to avail themselves of the royal fanétion, have recorded this circumftance in letters of gold, in the committee room. The infirmary was built by public contributions, and legacies, and is now fupported by an annual fubfcription. Bifhop Benfon forefaw the neceffity of an infirmary in this city, and left zool. toward the defign. I am, &c.