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TWELVE MONTHS IN THE

BRITISH LEGION.

CHAPTER I.

Arrival at San Sebastian.-Good Reception of the Inhabitants.-Spanish Flea. Effects of Bounty-Money.-Removal to the Convent of San Francisco. Paseo. -Alguaziles.-Chapelgorris.-General Jauregui or El Pastor.-Spanish Family.-Tertulia.-Plaza Nueva of San Sebastian. -Description of the Convent.-Basques.-Dress of the Peasantry.Dinner to the Officers of the 1st Regiment.-Ball to the Inhabitants.

On the 10th of July, 1835, the Royal Tar, steam-vessel, having on board the first division of recruits of the British Auxiliary Legion of Spain, cast anchor in the Bay of San Sebastian. It was the first body of that force that set foot in the country, and San Sebastian had been chosen for its landing, as being a town of con

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siderable magnitude, and, on account of the healthiness of the climate and the good disposition of the inhabitants, the best adapted for the purposes in view.

It was to the great joy of every one on board that, early in the morning, we discerned the bold headlands of Spain stretching away to the east and west till lost in the blue dimness of distance, while peak above peak of rugged mountains raised their crests as far as the

eye I could reach into the interior. The first impression on seeing them in the morning, was, that they were clouds resting in broken masses on the horizon, and it was not till we neared the shore, and could distinguish the waves breaking on the beach, that the illusion was dispelled.

A large lighthouse standing on a lofty eminence, marked the entrance to the Bay, which on near approach became visible, with the Castle of San Sebastian on its seemingly impregnable height, and the small island of Santa Clara, that appears to be purposely placed where it is, to stop up the mouth of the harbour

against all aggression both of winds and waves. Not a house, however, was to be seen, till on rapidly passing the narrow outlet and turning a corner to our left, the town of San Sebastian, with its steeples and battlements, suddenly started into view, snugly basking on the sunny side of the huge mountain that shelters it from the sea and protects it from all attack on land. As the anchor plunged into the water, a peal of artillery from the Castle, answered by the universal clashing of churchbells in the town, saluted the arrival of the 1st Regiment in Spain.

While making arrangements for landing the men, boats of every size and denomination, filled with men, women, and children, put off to view us more closely. Bright-eyed beauties in their dark mantillas; fierce and wild-looking soldiery in grey coats and round scarlet caps; peasants in their picturesque brown cloaks and broad sombreros; Basque market-women with jars of milk, butter, and fruit,—all crowded round the vessel, eyeing us with the greatest curiosity, and every now and then sending forth

a cry of Viva! which was caught by the crowd on the quays, and re-echoed by the groupes collected on the castle-height.

After all that had been said and sung of Spanish women, the first black mantilla seen fluttering in the breeze, with the blacker locks that flowed under it, and the large bright eye that darted upwards its scrutinizing glance, were things that excited the greatest interest on board; and eager to display our knowledge of their language, we addressed the fair strangers with all the expressions of politeness that could be invented or picked out of the conversation-books. I remember making the circuit of the vessel to keep up with the small boats that rowed slowly round, and exhausting my whole stock of Spanish on two very pretty girls who had ventured themselves. on the waters to have a nearer view; and great was their astonishment on hearing the words "A sus pies de ustedes, señoritas!" from the mouth of a tenant of the vessel.

The men, to the number of four or five hundred, were speedily embarked in the large

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